Bacharach, Germany
Fun Fact #1: Our hotel is a small tower. Colette and I got
the room, actually suite, at the top. We’re like princesses, and naturally
enjoying every minute of it. As Colette put it, “If I had long billowy hair,
I’d totally throw it out our window right now just like Rapunzel.”
Presenting...Bacharach's Top 5!
Bacharach |
5. In a place that has such a war-filled history, I have found
serenity and peacefulness. Sitting in the nook of my hotel room, I can look out
the window and sigh contently. Even with the steady buzz of traffic from a busy
street directly underneath and the whizzing of passing trains and boats, the
birds seem to overpower them; all I notice is the calm currents of the Rhine
River and the tree-covered mountains behind them. The kitschy décor of our 700-year-old
hotel building seems to blend perfectly with the medieval and classical
architecture of the town, nestled into the hillside.
4. Stumbling into a small shop in a nearby town
(Obersteefels…I think), Colette and I found true German hospitality and
friendliness. Little did we know when we walked into Stefan’s Christmas and Wine Paradise to take a few snapshots of the
Nutcrackers in the windows, that Rosi would immediately come up to us with
small shot glasses of fresh peach brandy for us to try. After our first
tasting, they didn’t seem to stop. She asked us to browse the wall of wine and
brandy and pick as many flavors as we wanted to try. We sampled blackberry and
chocolate brandy (of which, I had to purchase), and then moved onto wines.
Bacharach is very particular and proud of the wines they make. Much sweeter
than American and other wines, they specialize in white wines, especially the
Eiswine. Then, Stefan, the owner of the store came over to chat with us as we
were encouraged to taste away. (We found out he is pretty close with our tour
founder, Rick Steves!) He even let us try a very rare red Eiswine; it’s about
$300 a bottle because it takes 65 pounds of grapes to make one bottle, and each
grape’s skin has to be peeled off by hand. If that wasn’t enough, he gave us a
free bottle of blackberry brandy, since it was our favorite, to enjoy, “this
evening, back at the hotel, when [we were] just sitting around.” Needless to
say, Colette and I enjoyed our discovery of the shop and the hospitable
employees that run it!
3. Herr Jung (pronounced “Young”) is the sweetest 81 year
old German man in the entire world. The local guide for our Walking Tour
through Bacharach, Herr Joung weaved his own childhood memories into the
history of the town and its role in the various wars throughout the decades. He
took us through vineyards, where the native sweet white wines originate (and
are sold almost exclusively throughout the area); we climbed one of the guard
towers to look out at the village nestled on the bank of the Rhine River. He
told us about losing his brother, discovering, when he was a boy no more than
10, the destroyed body of an American soldier in the nearby woods, and of the
American family that sent packages of food and saved his life at the end of
World War II. He expressed genuine remorse at what had happened to the Jewish
people in his town and a hint of shame for all of Germany’s wars. That such a
sweet, kind man survived such tragedy in his life is remarkable. And, he is
almost nothing but smiles and joy.
View of the Rhine River |
Burg Rheinfels Ruins |
2. Climbing through the mine tunnels of the Burg Rheinfels
(Castle Rheinfels) ruins. It pretty much speaks for itself. Castle? Nice.
Ruins? Sweet. Mine tunnels? That’s just fantastic. I had to bend over nearly 90
degrees to fit the tight confinements of the cobbled, stone walls as I crawled
through. And since it had been raining all day, it was slick and muddy. Our
guide, Gabby, gave directions to some of the younger boys leading the line
(they were about 18, along with about 5 – 6 other boys on this trip who are
also that same age), and then she sent us on our way. Winding and bending
through the dark passages made my heart beat a little faster, but leaving my
trust in the hands of a bunch of 18 year old boys? That was terrifying! We
luckily made it out, and I felt a little more trusting as we went through a
second, less confining and more easily navigable tunnel. It was truly a
once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.
Burg Rheinfels Ruins |
1. Colette and I joined the ‘young-ins’ after a full day of
walking, hiking up to the Burg Rheinfels, and a Canal river cruise down the
Rhine, to hike up to the castle at the top of a nearby hill. The castle now
acts as a youth hostel. It was a bit of a hike, but we loved spending time with
Derek, 18 and going to Illinois in the fall, Kaiah, the same age and from
Colorado, and Alexi, an adorable about-to-be sophomore in high school. (We
promised Derek’s mom and Alexi’s grandmother we would take good care of them!)
While we were all surprised to see that it really was ‘youth’ running about the
hostel—8 – 10 year olds shouting and playing everywhere, we had fun climbing up
and down the castle and trying to sync our camera timers to get group shots of
us and the view.
*There are some wonderful people on our tour, in a variety
of ages. We’ve got some older married couples, a dad and his 10 year old son, a
few mothers and their ‘just graduated high school’ sons, a grandmother and her
3 grandsons of various ages, a family with 2 boys about college age, a
grandmother and granddaughter, a family of 3, and two girls traveling together
from Colorado. While we're quite an eclectic group, we are all having fun
together! It's becoming my family away from home. And this is probably the top highlight I’ve discovered in Northern
Germany.
Me, Colette, Derek, Lexi, and Kaiah |
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